Showing posts with label RACHAEL CASSAR. Show all posts
Showing posts with label RACHAEL CASSAR. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

CLEAN CUT DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Bhalo

Rachael Cassar 

Kowtow

Bhalo 

Rachael Cassar 

Bhalo

Ovna Ovich

Rachael Cassar

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GEORGIA BLACKIE.
WORDS BY SIGRID (SIGGI) MCCARTHY.

Sydney’s Mercedes Benz FashionWeek (MBFW) has finally embraced ethical fashion this year, with its first sustainable fashion event - the Clean Cut Designer Showcase. Held at The Hughes Gallery in Surry Hills, the event proved that sustainable fashion is not only for fringe shows aimed at a niche audience. The exquisitely styled and curated showcase challenged the stigma often attached to ethical fashion and highlighted that it can and should be embraced by the broader fashion community.  

All from diverse backgrounds and with varied expertise, the four Sydney-based women behind Clean Cut came together with a shared vision. Managing Director and Head Curator Carlie Ballard says, ‘We knew that if we (sustainable fashion) were going to create waves and be included in the wider fashion community, there could be no compromise on aesthetic, quality or style. We also knew that we needed to promote sustainable fashion outside of the sustainable fashion bubble, and be inclusive to the wider fashion industry.’

The brands were ultimately chosen for their stunning aesthetic alongside their strong ethical production. Those showcased were Rachael Cassar (Sydney), Bhalo (Perth), Desert Designs (Sydney), Kowtow (NZ), Lalesso (Kenya), Goodone (UK), The Social Studio (Melbourne), and Ovna Ovich (NZ).

By curating such a beautiful show, Clean Cut demonstrated that ethical practice could co-exist with good design and fine craftsmanship. These three elements were blended so seamlessly that you could be excused for forgetting that it was a sustainable fashion event! Every element of the show had been carefully considered. From the clothing and the styling to the models and the venue, Clean Cut was a breath of fresh air.

Sydney-based designer Rachael Cassar opened the event with intricate, handmade gowns made entirely from recycled materials. Sourced from pretty much everywhere you could possibly imagine, including antique auction houses and deceased estates, Cassar has truly mastered the art of upcycling. Reinventing and extending everything in a garment's remains, Cassar believes that, ‘if aesthetic and sustainability can co-exist together then we’ve got an equally appealing product.’ 

Bhalo was also a standout; a Perth-based label that creates limited edition garments using natural hand woven textiles, printing and embroidery. The brand prides itself on being transparent and working with and supporting exceptionally talented rural producers and artisans in Bangladesh. Jessica Priemus, co-owner/director of Bhalo emphasised, ‘I don’t want to create a sympathy product where people feel like they have to buy it because they feel sorry for the people who made it. I really want it to be something that people desire.’

Ethical and transparent supply chains were also promoted at a local level, with Ethical Clothing Australia accredited label The Social Studio demonstrating that local manufacturing is not only still possible, but that it can be an integral part of a successful and innovative fashion label. The Melbourne-based social enterprise, which designs and manufactures everything on-site at their Collingwood retail space, sent bold and vibrant streetwear down the runway - made from reclaimed and up-cycled materials gathered from the local fashion industry.

New Zealand label Kowtow was a classic collection of easy, ready to wear looks. The effortlessly chic pieces, which are  certified fair trade organic and made from cotton grown and produced sustainably and ethically, were reminiscent of my hometown's understated aesthetic. They were also styled beautifully with Kuwaii shoes that are made in Melbourne. In this interview with W Concept, Kowtow Founder Gosia Piatek says she is passionate about ensuring her label has integrity. She says, 'It's a goal of mine to show other companies that it's possible to run a profitable business that is ethically conscious.'

The most exciting thing about Clean Cut is that it is more than just a designer showcase. The fashion advocacy group is working towards a more transparent and ethical fashion industry by celebrating sustainable fashion and making it more accessible. They are currently developing an online directory, the Clean Cut Style Guide, which will act as a guide to the sustainable fashion world. ‘It’s basically a go to directory so consumers can easily find the labels across the globe that are actively working in this space. This is where much of the problem lies - the outlets for many sustainable designers are limited and hard for consumers to get their hands on. So this will be great for consumers to shop based on their values’, says Ballard.

It was always going to be a challenge proving to the industry that sustainable fashion should be taken seriously and given an ongoing slot in the MBFW official schedule. That said, Clean Cut’s debut was received with open arms. Encouraged by the event’s success, Carlie Ballard says she is excited by the current Australian fashion landscape and is looking forward to seeing the sustainable fashion movement evolve - ‘Sustainable fashion is growing, and pressure is definitely building for all labels to start to take steps in the right direction. It’s the future of the fashion industry so it’s only a matter of time.’

DESIGNERS SHOWCASED:

- Rachael Cassar (Sydney)
- Bhalo (Perth)
- Desert Designs (Sydney) 
- Kowtow (NZ)
- Lalesso (Kenya)
- Goodone (UK)
- The Social Studio (Melbourne)
- Ovna Ovich (NZ)

THE CLEAN CUT TEAM:

- Carlie Ballard from fashion label Carlie Ballard and online sustainable fashion platform Indigo Bazaar.
- Kelly Elkin from organic sleepwear label ALAS.
- Lisa Heinze author of newly published book Sustainability with Style.
 - Yatu Widders-Hunt published eco writer, blogger at Thinking Fashion and media & communications expert. 

Friday, July 26, 2013

INTERVIEW WITH RACHAEL CASSAR.

Image by Patrick McCarthy

The term ‘sustainability’ is thrown around a lot these days… How do you interpret the term and how does it influence your designs?
(Sustainable fashion is) fashion that is designed with a consideration for the environment. I consider the item’s lifespan and its footprint, and I create fashion that looks towards protecting the future.
I up-cycle. I try and extend everything in a garment’s lifespan - old zippers, old thread, shoulder pads, buttons... I now have a library of different elements that can be recycled to create new garments. I take and save each element, even if I am not using it in a current design. There is no such thing as waste for me. The tiniest scrap can save the day when designing the way I do. I work without limitations. I have even taken apart old designs of my own and re-used the fabric again.
How do you ensure your garments are of the highest quality? Take us through your design process.
I source my materials from anywhere - markets, garage sales, op shops, auctions, donations from friends, family and public. I then carefully unpick the garments and reuse the fabric, draping directly onto a mannequin. I don’t think people are attracted to my work solely for the ‘eco’ element; I believe my design aesthetic holds its own ground. I love good design and high fashion and I don’t sacrifice these things for an eco result. The fact that it is sustainable is a bonus. The two combined (good design and sustainability) ensure a desirable product.
What are your thoughts on the local Australian fashion industry; do you think sustainable design is encouraged and/or supported?
I do find it hard here in Australia for the type of fashion I create. I am all about slow fashion - each item is hand made, valuing technique and quality over quantity. Instead of them being disposable and short-lived, I want my garments to tell a story and to be passed on. Unfortunately, this makes it difficult for a small label like mine to thrive here, as it goes against everything our traditional fashion industry is about. To be honest, most of the attention I receive is from overseas. The fashion industry here seems to get to a point where it is comfortable with a handful of designers and those designers seem to dominate the marketplace for decades. 
Various celebrities have worn your clothing – including Rihanna, Kristen Stewart and Christina Ricci – how did these opportunities arise?
A Los Angeles based PR firm contacted me after I had a stall at the Esthetica exhibition during London Fashion Week - they were passionate about my range and my vision and wanted to represent me! 
Which other fashion designers and labels (that have a focus on sustainability) do you admire/reference?
Margiela is someone I have always admired. However my aesthetic is very different to his, so I don’t really reference (his work). I also love the versatility and timelessness of Yamamoto and Rey Kawakubo. They have created designs that sustain time; they can be transformed and worn many different ways. They also encourage the wearer to look closer at the way things are made and the way we can wear and interact with our clothes. This to me is a brilliant display of sustainability.
What are you working on at the moment?  
At the moment I am working on a collection that has been inspired by my ancestors’/grandparents’ history. They lived in Egypt at a time which has been described to me as magical. My grandmother gave me an item of clothing that was apparently my great aunt’s mother’s, and was given to her by a princess when she worked in a palace. My collection has been inspired by this particular piece, along with the fantastical images I have made up in my head based on their stories since I was a child.

Monday, June 24, 2013

THE ETHICS OF STYLE OPENING.

Gemma Anastasiou designs. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

The opening of The Ethics of Style exhibition took place on Sunday the 23rd June and I'm happy to say that it was a great success! I was so humbled by how many people attended - the gallery looked gorgeous and was full of life.

The exhibition runs until the 21st July, so be sure to pop into The Light Factory Gallery to see the beautiful fashion illustration and design on display. Thanks again to everyone who has supported me over the past 6 months; it has been such a rewarding experience. 

A special thank you goes out to:

# All of the artists and designers - Gemma Anastasiou, Rachael Cassar, Joseph Jang, Kerrie Hess, Edwina White, Angie Rehe, Michel Canetti, Caitlin Shearer & Christine Pan. 

# Director of the gallery, Margot Tasca. It is not often a novice such as myself is given this amount of freedom and creative license. She has been a great mentor over the past six months and has helped me realise my full potential. I cannot thank her enough for giving me this opportunity.

# Our sponsors - Naked Range Wines and Mei + Picchi.

# All of The Light Factory Gallery staff; particularly Christina Lew for helping out with publicity.


Joseph Jang designs. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Joseph Jang has reinterpreted ‘wearable art’ by creating paintings that are in fact wearable. His works are meticulously hand painted and they highlight his belief that unique and good craftsmanship overrides monotonous and fast fashion. His clothing has been made out of recycled denim; using secondhand jeans found in op shops to create striking avant-garde looks.

Fashion illustrator Kerrie Hess. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Gemma Anastasiou designs. Photo by Gemma

Cara Webber. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Director of The Light Factory Gallery Margot Tasca with Tric Todd & Kaye Manners

Gemma Anastasiou design. Photo by Gemma

Gemma Anastasiou has explored alternative dye methods by heat bonding fresh rose petals to her fabrics. This process has all been done by hand, by Gemma herself, which results in no two garments being the same. She is conscious of her clothing having low environmental impact and with this in mind, her clothing draws on ties between fashion, nature and fibre.

 Rachael Cassar designs. Photo by Ol Marin

 Rachael Cassar designs. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Rachael Cassar’s garments are all made from recycled materials. To create the four garments showcased at the gallery, she has sourced old garments and materials from antique auctions, deceased estates, and closing down costume house auctions. She has refashioned old garments into new ones and given them a new purpose, all the while refusing to sacrifice good design and functionality.

Joseph Jang designs. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Gemma Anastasiou designs. Photo by Gemma

Rachael Cassar designs. Photo by Patrick McCarthy


Gemma Anastasiou designs. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Gallery's publicist Christina Lew. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Rachael Cassar designs. Photo by Ol Marin

Tony Alkemade & Ol Marin. Photo by Patrick McCarthy

Joseph Jang design

Joseph Jang design

Joseph Jang design

Gemma Anastasiou design

Joseph Jang designs

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

THE ETHICS OF STYLE EXHIBITION


Over the past 6 months, I have been curating a sustainable fashion exhibition for The Light Factory Gallery in Melbourne, Australia. The exhibition explores the relationship between sustainability and wearable art. It showcases both 2D and 3D works - sustainable designs displayed on mannequins by three Australian fashion designers, and beautiful fashion illustration displayed on the gallery walls by six Australian artists. 

The exhibition, sponsored by Naked Range Wines and Mei + Picchi, will run from Thursday 20 June - Sunday 21 July 2013. The opening event is free and all are welcome. It will be a great chance for people to meet the artists/designers, so please come along on Sunday 23 June between 2pm - 4pm.

Accompanying the exhibition are two interactive workshops that will take place at the gallery:

# A refashioning workshop run by Peppermint Magazine's Leeyong Soo, which will be held on Saturday 20 July.

# A fashion illustration workshop run by local artist Angie Rehe, which will be held on Saturday 27 July.

For workshop bookings and more information, please visit The Light Factory Gallery.

Dress by Sydney-based fashion designer Gemma Anastasiou

- PRESS -

# Featured on Peppermint Magazine's website

# Interviewed by renowned fashion editor Janice Breen Burns for Voxfrock.

# Interviewed by fashion editor Jane Rocca for The Weekly Review.

# Featured in The Age's Life & Style section.


# Interviewed by The Age newspaper's Ray Edgar.

Knit top and stamped floral skirt by Gemma Anastasiou.
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