TAILORING TOMORROW.

Above PHOTO of me by CAMILLE GOWER. 

Below WORDS by SIGRID (SIGGI) MCCARTHY.

'Tailoring Tomorrow' was an event held in Melbourne on the 17th of January, hosted by Peppermint Magazine in partnership with Billy Blue College of Design. 

The event aimed to celebrate and discuss local, sustainable fashion and was MC'd by Director of Sustainable Fashion Australia, Lara McPherson. It featured a panel of really interesting people from the industry, including:

Simon McRae from Ethical Clothing Australia, Julia Haselhorst from the TFIA Hub, Sustainability Advocate Eloise Bishop, Kelly Elkin of sleepwear label ALAS, Alex Trimmer of SOSUME Clothing and Australian eco-fashion designer Rachael Cassar.  

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ELOISE BISHOP

Eloise was the first to speak on the night and she focused on the responsibility that businesses have to ensuring their business models are both ethical and sustainable. I found Eloise's presentation particularly thought provoking and thought it'd be nice to share with you a few of the key points raised:

She stated that:

- Businesses must balance their focus on growth with their focus on sustainability/ethics. 

- The Government should legislate/penalise businesses that have negative environmental impacts (e.g. large amounts of textiles being sent to landfill).

- Businesses should be exposed for unethical practices, as public scrutiny can often influence them to do the right thing.  

- There are more and more consumers conscious of their consumption habits, which presents opportunities for businesses to appeal to a growing market. 

Eloise also discussed:

* Design for Sustainability - a solution to design waste.

She used TOPSHOP's Reclaim To Wear initiative as an example of design for sustainability.

'The TOPSHOP design team have collaborated with Reclaim To Wear to produce a collection of fashion pieces made entirely from beautiful fabrics that were left over from previous collections - this zero waste method creates both an interesting design challenge and helps to protect the environment.' - TOPSHOP

For more information, click here.

* Raw Materials - the use of certified materials/fabrics, and less chemicals/dyes.

H&M now has a Conscious Collection, which is made from only sustainable materials such as organic cotton, Tencel, and recycled polyester. This fashion powerhouse is actually the number one user of organic cotton worldwide and has been working with its suppliers to create water conscious denim - it's stated on H&M's website that the company has so far saved 300 million litres of water since developing this initiative. 

'Our vision is that all business operations shall be run in a way that is economically, socially and environmentally sustainable.' - H&M 

For more information, click here.

* Production - including social compliance, codes of practice, auditing, and third party certification.

Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA), as mentioned in many of my previous posts, is a third party certification working with Australian fashion labels. Eloise highlighted the importance of companies working towards ensuring their supply chains are ethical, and also the importance of being fully transparent and aware of the processes behind a product. 

* Packaging - decreasing waste & negative impacts on the environment. E.G. Biodegradable materials, sustainable printing options, and smarter ways of packaging products. 

She used the example of Puma's Clever Little Bag, which is a line of more sustainable packaging. 

For more information, click here.

* Consumer use - how one treats/protects a product (this includes washing, dyeing etc.)

Various companies are beginning to seriously consider the ways in which their products could become longer lasting. One of the considerations is offering repair services to customers so a garment does not just become disposed of when in need of repair.

This particular issue is about engaging the consumer, and encouraging the care of a product. 

* End of life - where does it go? Can the materials be given another life? 

Particular design labels are opening up second-hand stores to offer customers the chance to sell garments on a commission basis. Eloise used the example of Filippa K, which opened a second-hand store in 2008. 

As stated on their website, the second-hand store is 'part of a wider programme of environmental work and will be run on a not-for-profit basis by the company.'

"We are incredibly proud to be able to work with sustainability in this way. The fact that the superb quality and design of our products enable us to operate a second-hand concept is very much in line with the things for which Filippa K stands." - Filippa Knutsson, Creative Director.

For more information, click here. 

* Challenges - there are various challenges/issues which stem from the term 'sustainability' being linked with fashion and business in general. 

1) "Greenwashing" is a notion commonly associated with companies using sustainable terminology in an effort to sell their products. They give the illusion that their products are sustainable when in reality they're just making claims that have no real integrity. 

Greenwashing definition - the act of misleading consumers regarding the environmental practices of a company or the environmental benefits of a product or service.

'The Sins of Greenwashing' report was produced by TerraChoice and deals with this kind of deception. Check out the report here.

2) How can one actually measure levels of sustainability? The Sustainable Apparel Coalition is 'working to reduce the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products around the world.' 

For more information, click here. 

3) The need for businesses to meet customer needs. Businesses must contemplate ways of being sustainable whilst also keeping pricing and design in mind - garments still need to look good and be affordable to the general public. It's a big learning curve. 

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It's really wonderful seeing events such as this not only taking place, but also attracting a wide range of interested/ing and passionate people. Congratulations to all those involved for organising this successful evening!

Rachael Cassar designs - image VIA here

THE SOCIAL STUDIO.

** This dress is made from only recycled and excess manufacturing materials gathered from the local industry. 

WORDS BY SIGRID (SIGGI) MCCARTHY.

After graduating from a Bachelor of International Studies last year, I was unsure whether I was cut out for a career in Foreign Aid and Development. (I originally chose this as my future career path, but after coming back from an internship in Nepal - where I led a women's empowerment program - I started having doubts.)

For my final research project in third year, I researched the local fashion industry and the ways in which many local outworkers were being exploited. Not only did this project open my eyes to the ills of the fashion industry - an industry that I am very interested in and have respected for a long time - but it also highlighted to me that I could potentially mix my love of fashion with my strong interest in human rights and the environment. 

In order to really make a difference in this industry, I believe that one must acknowledge the potential for ethics and aesthetics to coexist and that more so, one must actually love fashion. You cannot write the industry off all together and treat it as a frivolous joke when attempting to create change. Like it or not, the fashion industry plays a huge role in society, and the general public is not going to wake up one day and convert to a nudist's way of living. Instead of merely coming from a critical standpoint, we need to create new ways of ensuring that consumers have ethical and stylish alternatives to fast, unsustainable fashion. 

Undoubtedly, there is still a stigma attached to the term sustainable fashion - something along the lines of undyed homespuns and unattractive design - but I believe there is potential for designers to completely eradicate this stigma.

Whilst I do think we have a long way to go in terms of offering consumers greater choice when attempting to shop ethically, I would like to emphasise that there are many labels, both international and local, already striving to create garments with both integrity and an understanding of good design and execution.     

The Social Studio is a Melbourne-based label doing something really special. As stated on their website:

"The Social Studio label is designed and made at our Studio to an extremely high quality using hand dying and finishing techniques. All garments are ethically made using only reclaimed and up-cycled materials gathered from local industry. This is certified by Ethical Clothing Australia.

Each collection is a collaboration; between all the new and emerging designers at the Studio bringing together an array of talents, styles and cultural influences to create vibrant and contemporary collections bi-annually."

I would highly recommend popping into the Studio, which is located at 128 Smith Street in Collingwood. They make everything on site in an exposed workshop, and the staff are very friendly/knowledgable. It's refreshing to find a transparent business that encourages their customers to understand the origin of their purchases. 

NOTE: This photo is of a sequinned dress I bought today from The Social Studio. I need to buy a proper slip to go underneath it, as this one is just a lace nightie of mine and doesn't quite work with the dress, but you get the idea. My apologies for the terrible quality of the photo - you're looking at a guerrilla type photo shoot in my room with the MacBook program 'Photo Booth.' I will upload some better ones soon to do the dress justice! 

WHITE ANTING THE WEDGES.

** This article was written for and published in Catalyst Magazine. It isn't exactly fashion related, but it's close to my heart all the same **

WORDS BY SIGRID (SIGGI) MCCARTHY.

Melbourne is regarded as the world’s most liveable city, and this is due in part to its access to non-urban areas known as green wedges. Often referred to as the ‘lungs’ of Melbourne, Victoria’s green wedges have been protected for the most part by the planning scheme originally implemented by the Hamer Liberal Government in the 1970s.

These non-urban areas of Metropolitan Melbourne provide more than just breathing space for Victorians. They safeguard agricultural uses, preserve rural and scenic landscapes, and are home to some of our natural water catchments – providing us with some of the purest water in the world. Since they were identified, successive governments have worked hard to protect these safeguards, acknowledging that they are an extremely important part of Victoria.

The current government’s strategies to remove land from the green wedges and to reform Victoria's planning system highlights just how little Ted Baillieu regards previous efforts by bipartisan governments to protect our green wedges. Under his logical inclusions and anomalies scams, 6,000 hectares have been removed from green wedge zones, giving way for housing and commercial development. Now, under the guise of planning reforms, existing planning restrictions will be removed, allowing extensive tourism, commercial and non-agricultural projects within green wedges.

Kahn Franke, president of the Green Wedge Coalition and member of the Green Wedge Protection Group Inc. Nillumbik states that “The current zone reforms are a recipe for planning disaster; there is no vision, and no justification. They are poorly thought out and will benefit a few at the expense of all Melbournians.”

Other people share similar concerns to Franke. Chief Executive of Environment Victoria, Kelly O’Shanassy acknowledged, “The people that will benefit most from the Baillieu Government decisions are developers and land owners that will become very wealthy from selling their land. Many of those that will benefit financially have lobbied the government strongly to develop in the green wedges.”

Melbourne already has 30 years’ land supply available for use. This leads many people to speculate why the government doesn’t take advantage of opportunities for smart urban development within existing urban boundaries. By refusing to protect our green wedges, the Baillieu government is merely encouraging urban sprawl.

Unlike the proposed reforms, existing planning legislation puts sustainable development and community wellbeing at the forefront, ensuring Melbournians benefit from fresh air, clean water and locally produced fresh food. It is important we keep in mind that producing food locally reduces carbon emissions and transport costs, meaning that protecting non-urban areas of Melbourne helps lower the cost of food and ease the financial burdens of individuals and families.

In July 2012, Planning Minister Matthew Guy spoke out against critics of the planning reforms stating, “The only people who criticise these reforms are planning dinosaurs…Fitzroy-based academics.” This superficial retort ignores the many community members across the twelve designated green wedge areas that are deeply concerned by the government’s proposal, fearing the reforms lack long-term vision and community involvement.

Kelly O’Shanassy points out that these reforms raise more than just environmental concern. “…The people who move to these new suburbs will have severely limited access to public transport and will face ever increasing travel costs in line with petrol prices. Housing approvals are falling in existing outer suburban areas making it questionable as to why new suburbs are even needed.”

At the Green Wedge Coalition’s AGM held on 29^th August 2012, community representatives, activists and past and current politicians gathered to discuss their concerns regarding the future of our green wedges. Those in attendance included former Labor premier Mr Steve Bracks and Lady Hamer, wife of former Liberal premier Sir Rupert Hamer. Both these public figures expressed their dismay over the proposed reforms.

Lady Hamer spoke passionately about upholding her husband’s legacy, reminding us “…any encroachment on our green wedges is irreversible.”

2012 is a year of great significance, as it marks ten years since the Bracks Labor Government adopted the Urban Growth Boundary and the current Green Wedges Protection Policy, and forty years since Sir Rupert Hamer’s legacy was introduced.

As a young student, this piece of writing is not fuelled by political or financial gain. It is written out of concern for our city’s future, as I worry that the government’s plans, if implemented, will reduce the quality of life for all Victorians. Victoria’s youth will be left to deal with the devastating social and planning consequences caused by this government’s greed and collective ignorance.  

Kahn Franke announced at the AGM that the government’s reforms will “white ant the wedges from the inside leaving them as green in name only”, and I can’t help but agree with him. These reforms will undoubtedly change the face of Melbourne forever.

EVENT: WARDROBE WEEKENDER IN MELBOURNE.

It's hard to become bored with Melbourne when it is always surprising us with lovely pop up shops, markets and local festivals / events. The easy part though is missing out on such diverse gems, as they can come and go without you even being aware of them.

Luckily, I had the pleasure of working with Esther Navarro-Orejon from 'The Project Agency' over the weekend and she mentioned the Wardrobe Weekender being held at Barkly Square.

As stated in the Barkly Square media release, this three day event will include upcycling workshops, a clothing swap, a new and recycled fashion market, and a pop up fashion magazine and book store, 'Pretty in Print'.

Workshops taking place during the event include women from various backgrounds demonstrating the many things one can do to recycle materials and give them a new lease on life.

The Clothing Exchange is something I'm particularly excited about. It will take place on Saturday 5th, from 3pm, and will be the perfect opportunity for you to get rid of 6 items you no longer wear and take home 6 new pre-loved delights. The environment and your tired wardrobe will thank you for it!

Take advantage of living in such a lovely city, and head over to Barkly Square to support creative, sustainable fashion.

The Wardrobe Weekender runs from Friday 4th until Sunday 6th May.

EVENT: SUSIE BUBBLE IN MELBOURNE

VIA katecox.co.uk

London based fashion blogger, Susie Lau aka Susie Bubble, is coming to Australia as part of an exclusive series of talks at ACMI, presented by Portable. 

Taken from the official Portable website:

"Susie will explore the current fashion landscape in 2012, identifying how fashion designers and retail brands can position themselves globally by working with online publishers, bloggers and social media channels to create real connections with audiences. She will also speak generally on her trajectory as a professional blogger, exploring the challenges that all online publishers face in connecting with readers and creating an authentic voice in the noisy world of social media.

This is a must see event for anyone actively working within fashion, retails and online publishing. It is suited to creative professionals working within a wide variety of media related industries including online publishing, sales, brand management, public relations and technology. It consists of a keynote presentation and Q&A, followed by networking drinks after the event."

Get your tickets here

ABBOTSFORD CONVENT OPEN AIR CINEMA

Being from the north side of Melbourne, I was overjoyed to hear that one of my favourite local venues, the Abbotsford Convent, was opening its own open air cinema. 

Image via broadsheet.com.au

The "Shadow Electric Open Air Cinema" runs from January through to April 2012 and features an array of fantastic films. 

Films showing in January include 'Auto-Luminescent' (about the great Rowland S. Howard), 'We Need to Talk About Kevin', 'Lolita' and 'Drive.' 

To check out what's on offer, visit:

http://www.abbotsfordconvent.com.au/whats-on/shadow-electric-open-air-cinema

And don't forget to pack your picnic!