Image VIA http://seensense.tumblr.com/
WORDS BY SIGRID (SIGGI) MCCARTHY.
Recently I bought a most unfortunate pair of stockings from
a reasonably well-known Australian designer. They were packaged in a cute jam
jar, so it wasn't until I opened the jar, tried the stockings on at home and
faced the laughter of my brother and a friend that I realised my mistake.
How does a designer get away with selling cheap home brand stockings with a few
pompoms glued on for $50? If I wanted to wear stockings that laddered within 24
hours and had random pompoms so low on the ankle I couldn't wear shoes without
removing them, I'd pop down to Coles / Spotlight and experiment blindfolded.
I suppose what was really disappointing to me was that I'd made the effort to
support a local designer, and the inflated price didn’t guarantee high quality.
I am normally happy to spend more money if that bit extra equates to better
quality, but I’m starting to realise that good quality, long lasting products
are becoming few and far between.
I genuinely think we need to address the questionable standards of the
lucrative fashion industry, or perhaps we as consumers need to address our own
standards and question why we are settling for less than we were 50+ years ago.
I just refuse to believe that my standards are too high.
When did we stop caring about the longevity of our clothing, and the overall
quality of a garment? People used to not only take pride in their appearance,
but also in the craftsmanship behind the items they bought. They expected
something to last, and therefore designers designed to meet this expectation.
These days, people have somehow forgotten (or have never known) what it is like
to wear something of good quality.
This notion obviously extends beyond items of clothing, and can be seen in many
industries. IKEA, for example, shows how cheap and convenient overrides long
lasting and well crafted. Many people are convincing themselves that things
aren’t in fact meant to last and they are becoming more concerned with trends and
less concerned with how things are made.
In saying that however, this does not apply to everybody - a
certain level of quality is still important to some. Those who do not want to be part
of this throwaway society might choose to buy clothing second hand, as second
hand generally yields better quality items. Recycled clothing gives people the
freedom to wear something unique; whilst also giving them the chance to wear a
quality garment they wouldn’t necessarily have access to first hand. The fact
that these items of clothing are still in wearable / sellable condition, often
decades after being manufactured, is testament to the point I’m trying to make.
More and more, fashion labels emulate the styles of times passed; yet they
don't produce garments of the same quality as those that they were inspired by.
The design elements are there, but the level of construction is nowhere near on
point. It's really refreshing to find designers creating garments that have
integrity and that are genuinely made to last.
Recently when speaking about the new Lanvin book, Alber
Elbaz spoke about the ways in which his label still values craftsmanship:
"…I wanted to show how many threads you have to put
together to make one rose; how much thought goes into a button. I wanted to
show a shoe in the factory in Italy being held like a baby by an old man and
then attached to a machine as if it was going to the dentist."
Unfortunately these designers cannot earn a living if consumers are not
prepared to pay for the man-hours and higher quality materials involved in their
garments’ construction. Global Studies graduate Primrose Riordan is concerned
with both sustainability and aesthetics when it comes to the clothing she wears.
As would I, Primrose ‘…would love to see more trend-conscious and creative
recycled clothing labels in Australia’.
Without trying to sound too dramatic, good craftsmanship is being bulldozed to
make way for cheap, high-profit junk peddlers. Those passionate about making
beautifully crafted garments are now an endangered breed. Soon there won't be heirlooms,
only short-term junk items destined to unravel or deteriorate shortly after
being received.
It seems that packaging is becoming longer lasting than the garments
themselves, yet people are not questioning why they’re left with a closet full
of empty shoes boxes and garment bags.
I’m still haunted by the image of me in those cheap
stockings but hey, at least one year on the jam jar will still look good.